For designers Rui Zhou, Yushan Li, Chen Peng, and Samuel Yang, it’s important to be forthright about their mixed identities and work together to present their Chinese identities freshly on a worldwide platform.
Making their voices known abroad is essential to Chinese designers Rui Zhou, Yushan Li, Chen Peng, and Samuel Yang because it shows how complex and varied Chinese invention can be in the present era.
Seven years ago, Chen Peng founded his business and gained notoriety for creating Cardi B’s breathtaking Met Gala costume. The year before, he also advanced to the LVMH Prize quarterfinals. Chen established himself by controlling the designer puffer jacket market and letting his imagination run wild.
“The most crucial thing if you want to show your collection all over the world is crafting an identity in an iconic category,” Chen stated during the WWD x SKP CEO Summit in Chengdu, during an interview with Tianwei Zhang, the editor of WWD London and China market.
Chen said, “The only collection we produce is for one season, but we convey in the most impactful way possible for that one season.” In March last year, Chen began exhibiting his designs during Paris Fashion Week.
Prominent partnerships with Diesel, Puma, H&M, and Lanvin, as well as a two-year term as Lacoste consultants in China, instilled greater self-assurance in Yushan Li, the Chinese half of the menswear duo Pronounce.
Pointing to his abstract-patterned purple Changsha, Li continued, “I’m wearing a chang shan today because Changsha is a part of the DNA of Pronounce and of myself and Jun Zhou, the brand’s co-founder.” During the Qing dynasty, men’s ceremonial dress became the Chinese long robe or qipao.
“We both had our education in the West, where we gained the self-assurance to talk openly about our identities and country of birth. Having a changshan has lessened the frequency with which I need to protect myself. My style ought to be able to talk for itself. Li claims that it is clearly stated in a language that everybody understands.
Rethinking traditional Chinese clothes for the modern day has been made possible by Samuel Yang, half of the London-based Samuel Gui Yang label, finding a globally-minded Chinese community, especially in the art world. The firm, which was established in 2015, has effectively developed relationships with clothing brand Icicle and Chinese cloth shoe producer Neiliansheng.
“I completely agree with Yushan’s statement,” said Yang, who and Li studied under Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins.
Our generation was fortunate enough to study abroad and receive a top-notch education. I chose to stay in London after graduating, and that’s when I finally found my creative community,” Yang said.
That’s how I gathered my belongings. “It’s a way to document how I’ve lived and enjoyed the culture around me, wherever I am, whether in London, Shanghai, or Chengdu,” Yang said about his approach.
Zhou, who founded Rui the year she received her degree from Parsons School of Design, thinks body acceptance education is more important than showing off her Chinese heritage. Celebrities such as Lily-Rose Depp, Dua Lipa, and Jennie from Blackpink have been set free by Rui’s unique knits featuring cutouts linked by skillful beading.
“My brand is about embracing body confidence and people’s imperfections while showcasing their identities,” Zhou stated.
China’s sales of designer apparel have skyrocketed over the last ten years, and the four designers themselves grew up during this time as the country’s Millennial and Gen Z customers began to show more daring and sophisticated taste in fashion than their parents did.
Take Samuel Gui Yang as an example. Working with his Swedish partner Eric Litzen, the brand effectively combines the traditional Chinese design with the humility of Sweden. Yang said of his innovative approach, “Maybe because I live overseas, I’m always trying to find something different than what I’ve learned from my parent’s generation.” I’m always trying to figure out what it means to be a Chinese person in the modern world.
“I hope that my interpretation of the Chinese aesthetic is something that people worldwide can appreciate, not just those who are Chinese,” Yang said.
Li Pronounces is eager to learn more about the spiritual aspects of Chinese philosophy. “The Chinese are the ones who first used the term “qi,” which denotes life energy and vigor. We wish to suggest that Pronounce is an eastern “qi” that may elevate people spiritually and help them forget about their gender and age since you have a special “qi” inside of you, Li added.
The company is expanding its creative sartorial vocabulary quickly with the introduction of collections that fused aspects of Chinese and traditional Indian and Moroccan cultures. Bangkok’s upcoming studio proves that the designers are fearless in pushing themselves beyond their comfort zones.
“We are interested in learning more about global citizenship. I said, “Right now, what excites Jun and me the most is our ability to see beauty in everything, everywhere, at once.”
The ultimate goal for the equally ambitious Chen is for Chen Peng’s silhouette and style, which have come to represent a young Chinese identity, to be recognized worldwide. “Our goal goes beyond simply showcasing a variety of apparel adorned with several dragons or phoenixes. We now dare to build a modern Chinese style,” Chen said.
To support the next growth stage, Chen would want to collaborate with other companies, both locally and abroad, to broaden his manufacturing and branding knowledge.
Zhou of Rui, who collaborated with Adidas on a capsule collection in August after being the first Chinese designer to do so with Victoria’s Secret, is an example.
Zhou said, “Working with partners has helped me understand the market and how to design more wearable and practical pieces.” It takes a realistic understanding of the desire to serve a wider audience. It concerns the standards by which our clients decide between shirts and leggings.
Yang’s grasp of manufacturing improved, and his market reach was increased through his collaboration with Icicle. The Samuel Gui Yang and Icicle collaboration was available in more than 270 Chinese stores. It was the first time we had combined one of our best-selling pieces, the Lee Jacket, with Icicle’s unusual double-faced wool. I can’t wait to continue working with you,” Yang said.
Yang said that to identify potential investments, he has put together a “long deck.” After a duration of patience and focus on building a brand, Yang said, “I think it’s time to explore the next steps.”
Li and the other designers agreed they still had a long way to go regarding company development.
Li stated, “We don’t know how a mid-sized company should operate, but we are still young and creative.” “Yet I believe Pronounce will have that opportunity when we have a Chinese luxury brand in 30 or 50 years.”